The Ottawa Heart Institute 1996 Logan Expedition for Heart operational plan is based on a time allowance of 23 days climbing. This is consistent with previous expeditions climbing the King Trench route and allows several days of flexibility for weather problems such as Maritime Polar fronts from the Pacific Ocean.

It is estimated the expedition will actually take 18 days to complete from the time of arrival at the Quintino Sella Glacier, to the summit of Mt. Logan and return to the Quintino Sella Glacier. Interestingly, while the ascent is expected to take between 15 and 16 days, the descent is a mere two day effort. During this time the team will cover a distance of 30 km and ascend 9000m (28000').

The expedition route begins at the Base Camp on the Quintino Sella Glacier and works its way up the King Trench, past Camp 1 and King Peak to King Col and Camp 2, which will serve as the Advance Base Camp. It is at the Advance Base Camp that extra provisions, rescue equipment and radio gear will be stored.

The progression to Camp 3 includes a steep ice fall below Queen Peak, hence the short distance between Camps 2 and 3. To reach Camp 4, the route then climbs up over the col between Aina Peak and Prospector's Peak, and around Prospector's Peak to Prospector Col. From Camp 4, a long low angle descent takes the route across the summit plateau, past Russell and Houston's Peak to Camp 5, due north of West Peak. This route has come to be known as the "low" route across the plateau. The last stage, from Camp 5 to the summit, will see the route traverse around the low shoulder of West Peak and into the cirque to gain the summit ridge.

The majority of the route will be traversed by ski with the exception of the ice fall below Queen Peak, and the summit ridge which both involve low angle climbing. Oddly enough, the most challenging aspect of the climb is the plateau and the difficulty it presents should any problems arise requiring a hasty retreat. For this reason, acclimatization is extremely important, more so than on mountains of similar heights, such as Denali.

With this in mind, the operational plan allows for a slow acclimatization up to 5100m (17,000'), with three carries each to move from the Base camp to Camp 1, and from Camp 1 to Camp 2 on King Col, and two carries to move to Camp 3. An alpine style, light and rapid ascent will be launched from Camp 3 over Prospector's Col to the summit to allow minimal time on the plateau. Clearly, the plateau is the crux of the route as each team member must have the resources to climb back over Prospector's Col (520m /1700') after the summit bid, with full packs and sleds. Consequently, the summit team will not go over Prospector Col to gain the plateau and set up Camp 5 until everyone is in perfect health.

The first day of the expedition will begin with the transportation and arrival of the team, by ski plane, at the Base Camp at the Quintino Sella Glacier (altitude - 2760m / 9055'). The transportation will be undertaken in three stages, as weight and altitude restricitions for the Cessna 182 limit each flight to two team members plus their gear. The return trip from Haines Junction to the Quintino Sella Glacier is four hours; transportation of the entire team and its equipment is therefore expected to take the entire day.

Day Two of the expedition will be spent setting up the Base Camp and sorting climbing gear and food for the carries to Camp 1. The following day will be a typical climbing day, beginning at 0400 hours with the preparation of breakfast and the readying of personal and team gear. The climbing will begin at 0700 hours.

The average length of each climbing day will tend to be 6.5 to 7.5 hours, while the summit day is expected to take 10 hours. However, weather, individual fitness, route-finding and terrain hazards will likely add several hours thus bringing it in line with a more typical climbing day of 10 - 12 hours. In addition, personal gear, team gear, food and fuel will weigh approximately 80 kg. (180 lbs.) per climber, which amounts to 16 days of climbing and 5 storm days. As a result, the first three carries from Base Camp to Camp 1 will be the heaviest at 27 kg. (60 lbs.) per climber. Fortunately, the loads will become lighter as food and fuel is consumed.


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