Oranges used to be better represented in Thailand's fruit markets than they are today. Some types, like som saa and som men that were unsuitable for eating, but whose distinctive flavors and aromas made them standard items in the Thai kitchen a century ago, are now all but completely gone. But juicy, sweet eating oranges like the ubiquitous som khio waan, a yellow-green tangerine with deep-orange, syrupy-sweet pulp; the Chinese favorite called the som cheng, and the melon-sized, grapefruit-like pomelo are still universally popular.

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