From the Introduction to The National Cooking of Kazakhs In the Kazakh national cooking as in a mirror found reflections of the people's nature, its history, customs and traditions. Since olden times hospitality has been the most distinctive feature of the Kazakh people. The dear guest was given a cordial welcome, he was offered the place of honour and entertained heartily.

In the first instance, the guest was treated to kumys, shubat or airan, then to tea with milk or cream, barusaks, raisins, irimshik, kurt. Then followed appetizers made of horseflesh or mutton - kazy, shuzhuk, zhal, zhaya, sur-yet, karta, kabyrga. Flat cakes made of flour were served without fail.

The adornment of any dastarkhan and the most popular dish among the Kazakhs has always been meat in the Kazakh manner. Boiled meat was usually served in large pieces. The host cut the meat treating every guest to dainty pieces: the pelvic bones and shin were given to elderly guests of honour, the brisket -- to the son-in-law or daughter-inlaw, the cervical vertebra -- to girls and so on. To the guest of honour ranking highest among the others the host handed over the sheep's head cooked in a special way. This guest had to distribute it among those present observing a certain ritual which reflects the ancient custom of respectful regard for guests -- old men, children, close and distant relatives. The sheep's head was distributed to compliment the guests: the eyes taken out and given to the person who sees the wisest, the ears to the person who listens, the nose to any person who smells of distinction.