Day 10, Wednesday, August 14, 1996
Cloudy and cool today, but no rain. A good day to travel, but, unfortunately, not to charge batteries. We have plenty of food and fuel, but we are running low on batteries. Not a concern on most canoe trips. But this is no ordinary canoe trip!
On the water again
The river really took off today ... sweeping us down some fun rapids. Lots
of caribou on the ridges, watching us paddle by. At the junction of the
Livingston River, we stopped and walked up to the falls. Caribou crossed
river just below the falls. They all cross in the same direction, just as
they did the previous days at the group shelter ... like they're all
heading somewhere ... like a big party. We took the requisite photos of
Livingston Falls - a sheet of green and white water falling over brown
we watched one caribou cross. Dan hid in the willows near where they
... and got some great video.
Lunch near the Soper
We stopped for lunch where a ridge of light grey rock spelled down to the
river. It stood out clearly from the dark mountains around it. At lunch,
we got out the MSAT communicator. The phone rang ... for Wade. It was the
producer of Morningside ... and he and Wade arranged to do an interview
tomorrow morning. This is pretty exciting!
The green water of the Soper River
After lunch we hiked up the white ridge and down into a small canyon. There were boulders coloured bright orange, bright white, some with an irridescent sheen. Waterfalls skid down polished white cliffs. Seams of mica were sandwiched in the white rock. Wow! Our packs are all heavier now.
We're camped in a grassy swale where a small stream enters the Soper, sheltered from the wind. A patch of cotton grass waves in the breeze. Tomorrow, we'll try to charge batteries.
This land amazes me. It is so open, it gives one a sense of freedom and
elation that fills you full of energy. One can see long distances and big
skies. There are no trees or buildings to distract the view. And it's
silent. When the wind blows, there are no trees for it to whistle through.
The land whispers. The water is clear, clean and cold. No one uses
the drink crystals. The water tastes great just as it is. The air is
fresh and clean. The rocks are clean. The earth is clean. It makes you
think of how the world once was, and how much we have lost.
Mini Inuksuk with Max
Supper tonight was Italian ... spaghetti with tofu and vegetarian meatballs in a tomato sauce, with herbed bannock and no bake cheese cake.
Today's installment of the travelogue is by Max Finkelstein.